In the past couple of decades, Edinburgh's Leith rough, seedy reputation led to low rents and property prices. This made Leith more accessible to a large immigrant population, which in turn created one of Scotland’s most vibrantly cosmopolitan areas, fused with strong community ties. This is now celebrated each August with the Mela festival of international culture, and happily Leith now offers the best of all worlds – cheap, mostly safe at night, with an excellent set of independent shops, pubs and restaurants right down the length of Leith Walk and on to the Shore.
Martin Wishart’s eponymous restaurant opened on Leith's Shore in 1999, and was Edinburgh’s first to win a Michelin star. Since then, The Kitchin and The Plumed Horse have snuggled in close by, though the latter lost its star in October. Take a step down from Michelin finery, however, and Leith’s waterfront has a fantastic variety of places to eat and drink, from ancient fire-lit pubs to cute bakeries, with particularly excellent seafood on offer.
One of Edinburgh’s finest qualities is the variety of geography found within a small area. From volcanic Arthur’s Seat in Holyrood Park, to the seagulls of the Port of Leith, the landscape changes before your eyes. Now much of the Shore has been regenerated, this seafront stretch is a great place to walk off those meals.
Leith offers visitors excellent value for money, though there are still parts where you should be careful at night. When it comes to green spaces, you’re more likely to make a special trip to the Meadows, Princes Street Gardens or Holyrood Park than Leith Links. However, prices here are lower than most areas, and bus access from the Shore and the bottom of Leith Walk is frequent, simple and quick. The upper end of Leith Walk is easily accessible from the city centre on foot.